The Glacier Express: Your Ultimate Scenic Train Guide from Zermatt to St. Moritz
Dubbed the “Slowest Express Train in the World,” the Glacier Express is an unforgettable 8-hour journey through the heart of the Swiss Alps, connecting two iconic mountain resorts: Zermatt (home of the Matterhorn) and St. Moritz. It’s not about speed, but about immersing yourself in breathtaking landscapes.
The Route Essentials:
- Distance: ~ 291 km (181 miles)
- Travel Time: Approx. 8 hours
- Cantons Traversed: Valais, Uri, Graubünden
- Key Mountain Passes: Oberalp Pass (2,033m / 6,670ft – highest point)
- Major Rivers Followed: Rhône, Rhine (Vorderrhein), Inn
- Iconic Landmark Views: Matterhorn, Rhine Gorge (“Swiss Grand Canyon”), Landwasser Viaduct
Why Ride the Glacier Express?
- Panoramic Windows: Floor-to-ceiling windows offer unobstructed, breathtaking 360° views.
- Engineering Marvels: Cross 291 bridges and go through 91 tunnels, including the spiral loops near Bergün and the stunning Landwasser Viaduct.
- Diverse Landscapes: Witness glaciers, deep gorges, high mountain passes, alpine meadows, charming villages, and dense forests.
- Effortless Comfort: Sit back, relax, and let the scenery unfold while enjoying Swiss hospitality and cuisine.
The Journey: Stage by Stage & Key Sights
- Zermatt to Brig (Valais):
- Departure: Starts at Zermatt station (1,604m), with potential early views of the Matterhorn (weather permitting).
- Scenery: Descend through the Mattertal valley, passing traditional Valais villages with sun-drenched vineyards clinging to steep slopes. Views of the Weisshorn and Dom massifs.
- Key Feature: Entering the long Furka Base Tunnel.
- Brig to Andermatt (Valais & Uri):
- Scenery: Follows the upper Rhône valley (Goms). Landscape shifts to high alpine, with larch forests and traditional wooden chalets.
- Highlight: The climb begins in earnest towards the Oberalp Pass. Views open up dramatically.
- Over the Oberalp Pass to Disentis (Uri & Graubünden):
- Climax: Ascent to the Oberalp Pass (2,033m). Stark, dramatic high-mountain scenery, often snow-covered even in summer. Passes the source of the Rhine River (Vorderrhein) at Lake Toma (Tomasee).
- Descent: Winds down into the Surselva region of Graubünden towards Disentis. Rugged valley views.
- Disentis to Chur / Thusis (Graubünden – Rhine Gorge):
- Scenery: Follows the young Rhine River (Vorderrhein) through the narrow, winding Ruinaulta (Rhine Gorge). Often called the “Swiss Grand Canyon” – sheer cliffs, turquoise water, lush forests. Absolutely stunning.
- Key Feature: Passing through the gorge offers some of the most dramatic and unique scenery on the route.
- Chur/Thusis to St. Moritz (Graubünden – Albula Line):
- Engineering Highlight: The UNESCO World Heritage Albula/Bernina Line section begins. This is a masterpiece of railway engineering.
- Iconic Moment: Crossing the Landwasser Viaduct – a curved, six-arch stone viaduct plunging directly into a tunnel in a sheer cliff face. (Best viewed from the right side heading to St. Moritz).
- Scenery: Spiral loops and tight curves (like near Bergün) as the train climbs again through forests and meadows. Enters the wide, sunny Upper Engadine Valley.
- Arrival: Final approach to St. Moritz (1,856m), passing glamorous resorts and sparkling lakes (like Lake St. Moritz).
Maximizing Your Matterhorn Views:
- Best Chance: The first hour leaving Zermatt offers the highest probability of clear views of the iconic peak. Sit on the left side of the train (facing direction of travel) for the best perspective.
- Weather Dependent: Mountain weather is fickle. There are no guarantees, but mornings often offer better visibility. Check forecasts in Zermatt.
- Later Views: While less common, you might catch glimpses later near the Oberalp Pass area or from other high points, but Zermatt valley is prime viewing.
Planning Your Trip: Essential Tips
- Booking is MANDATORY:
- You need both a valid travel ticket (Swiss Travel Pass, Eurail Pass, or point-to-point ticket) AND a separate seat reservation for the Glacier Express.
- Reserve Early: Especially for peak season (summer, Christmas/New Year). Book months ahead via:
- Official SBB Website (sbb.ch) or App
- Glacier Express Website (glacierexpress.ch)
- Major rail booking platforms (RailEurope, etc.)
- At Swiss train stations.
- Choosing Your Class:
- First Class: Wider seats, more legroom, slightly larger windows (panoramic), generally less crowded. Worth the upgrade for comfort on a long journey.
- Second Class: Still very comfortable with excellent panoramic windows. More budget-friendly.
- Excellence Class: Premium experience (extra cost) with at-seat gourmet dining, drinks included, and exclusive service. Limited seats.
- Seat Selection:
- Zermatt -> St. Moritz:
- Left Side: Generally better for Matterhorn views early on, and often better views descending into the Rhine Gorge and through much of the Albula Valley after the Landwasser Viaduct.
- Right Side: Prime view for the Landwasser Viaduct (as you approach it, looking forward). Also good for the climb up the Rhine Gorge.
- St. Moritz -> Zermatt: Reverse the above.
- Overall: Both sides offer incredible views at different points. Don’t stress excessively – you can walk around!
- Zermatt -> St. Moritz:
- Food & Drink:
- Onboard Restaurant Car: Serves multi-course Swiss lunches (reservation recommended, especially in peak season). Menus often feature regional specialties. Prices are high (as expected).
- Bistro Service: Light snacks, sandwiches, drinks, and coffee served at your seat.
- Bring Your Own: You are welcome to bring your own food and non-alcoholic drinks onboard. Highly recommended for budget-conscious travelers. Stock up in Zermatt or Brig.
- Audio Guide: Free headsets are provided with commentary in multiple languages, pointing out sights and history along the route. Essential!
- Best Time to Travel:
- Summer (June-Sept): Green valleys, alpine flowers, clear tracks. Busiest time.
- Winter (Dec-Apr): Magical snowy landscapes, cozy atmosphere. Check timetables as the route over Oberalp Pass relies on snow clearance (usually opens late May/early June, closes late Oct/early Nov). The Furka Base Tunnel keeps the route open year-round.
- Shoulder Seasons (May, Oct): Fewer crowds, potential for beautiful spring blooms or autumn colors, but higher chance of some sections being closed (Oberalp) or reduced services.
- St. Moritz Considerations:
- Arrival: St. Moritz is glamorous but expensive. Consider staying in nearby villages like Celerina or Pontresina for more affordable options while still enjoying the Engadine.
- Alternative Endpoint: Chur, Switzerland’s oldest town, is a charming and less expensive endpoint on the Glacier Express route if St. Moritz feels too extravagant.
Beyond the Train: Making the Most of Your Trip
- Overnight: Spend at least one night in both Zermatt and St. Moritz/Engadine to explore these beautiful regions.
- Gornergratbahn (Zermatt): Take this cogwheel train for arguably the best overall Matterhorn views before or after your Glacier Express trip.
- Bernina Express: From St. Moritz, consider continuing your scenic rail journey south towards Tirano, Italy, on another spectacular UNESCO line.
In Summary:
The Glacier Express is a bucket-list journey showcasing the stunning diversity and grandeur of the Swiss Alps. By planning ahead (especially reservations!), choosing your seat strategically, and embracing the slow pace, you’ll be rewarded with an unforgettable experience from the shadow of the Matterhorn to the glamour of St. Moritz. Enjoy the ride!